Wednesday, April 6, 2011

You'rrrrrre laate furrr teaaaaaaaaaaaaa! (in Scottish accent)

After our journey into the country, Meg and I decided to stay a bit closer to home today. Luckily, one of her former co-workers at the Smithsonian had given her a gift certificate for high tea at the Fairmont Resort and Hotel just outside of town as a "going away and wow you're going to Scotland" present. This place is pretty ridiculous. Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures of the outside or the grounds, but you should totes check out their website and consider staying their next time you're in Scotland and have a few hundred/thousand extra pounds laying around. http://www.fairmont.com/standrews

Now as some of you know, I love me some tea. (I really wish being a tea-totaller meant something else.) And if there's one thing that I love just about as much as tea, it's complex carbohydrates smothered in sugary fruit or fatty dairy spreads. Therefore, a meal of tea, tiny pastries, and scones with clotted cream and jam was basically the best thing I'd ever eaten. Meg enjoyed the savory sandwiches, too, but I was all about the stuff that had no redeeming nutritional value. The setting was this cozy little room furnished with tartan-covered pillows and very comfortable sectional couches as well as old prints of golf and highland hunting scenes on the walls. After leaving the hotel totally satisfied, we walked down to the golf pro shop in about 30 mph winds in order to take in a fantastic view of the courses, which overlook St. Andrews's skyline. It's not until you get out of the town itself are you able to realize how strikingly beautiful it's skyline is.

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We arrived at the Fairmont about half an hour early and explored what it had to offer. Not particularly impressed by the 80's video game console in the "teenage chill-out room," we moved next door to the "kids entertainment room," where we were delighted to find this air hockey table. As we started playing, a little Scottish girl ran in to the room beaming with excitement. Once she saw that the table was occupied though, she let out an audible "aaaaaaaw," and sulked over to the ring toss. I'm glad that Meg and I were able to provide her with a valuable lesson: life is full of disappointments, and more often than not you're stuck with a crappy ring-toss instead of a bomb-ass air hockey table.
Every friggin picture; she looks good in EVERY PICTURE. It's just not fair!! Also, that big white blob behind the scones is clotted cream, and it currently residence in my clotted arteries.

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This time my eyes were open, but only because Meg taking a picture of me triggered the same reaction that a startled raccoon has when some dude opens his garage door to find it rummaging through the garbage. Awesome; thanks, I love you baby.
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Oh youuuu take the hiiiiigh roooaaad and Iiiiiii'll take the loooow rooooaaaaaaad...

So the last few days have been wonderful and action packed, which is why we haven't been able to update the blog in awhile. On Monday Meg and I took the Fife Coastal Path from the nearby town of Crail to Anstruther in order to take in a wonderful view of the Scottish coastline. (and eat some of the of best fish and chips in all of Britain)

The minute we got off the bus in Crail it felt like we had been transported to the beginning of the 20th Century. The streets were lined with old fasioned cottages and the air smelled like a mixture of the ocean and peat-fed fires. There were tons of little side-streets and alley ways, not to mention lots of old school businesses like bakeries, tea rooms, and butcher shops. We made sure to explore this awesome little town before starting off along the coastline.

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If Crail felt like the early 20th century, the Fife Coastal Path felt centuries older. Once we made it about a half mile outside of Crail, we were completely alone. No buildings, no roads, just rocky outcrops and beautiful waterscapes. What really added to the scene was the wind, which was buffeting us the entire trip. We were quite a pair by the time we got to Anstruther with our wind-blown hair and wind-burned faces. (mine was redder than normal!) We ended up coming across some more old coastal houses that had long been abandoned, as well as some beautiful caves that apparently housed early Christian converts who hid with St. Somebodyorother to avoid persecution. Those Christians must have known how to party, because because they left a lot of empty beer bottles and burnt out cigarettes. All in all the walk was a little over four miles over pretty rugged terrain, and by the time we got to Anstruther we were famished. Luckily, it happens to be the home of some of the most famous fish and chips in Britain. There are a number of pictures of Camilla outside of the Anstruther Fish Bar holding a to-go bag. They were good enough for the likes of Meg and me, too. After a nice afternoon's walk, we took the bus home, kicked back, and relaxed at home.


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The next day we decided to head out to Glamis Castle (pronounced Glams), which is the ancestral home of the Earls of Strathmore and Kinghorne. The 18th Earl still owns the place, and lives at the back of this huge estate with his second wife. (if you want to read about his first wife and their juicy divorce, take a look at his wikipedia page. Let's just say it wouldn't be unfair to call him the Charlie Sheen of Scottish Nobility. Glamis is best known as the birthplace and childhood home of the late, great Queen Mum. Before she was known for cutting ribbons and wearing brightly-colored hats while riding in carriages, she lived the idyllic country life of the daughter of a common Earl. Dreams really can come true. (If you marry the younger brother of the heir to the British throne, who in turn becomes king after said brother runs away with a divorced socialite from Baltimore.)

Glamis was gorgeous, as the pictures can attest. Unfortunately, they don't let you take pictures inside of the castle, but the outer grounds were enough. It's situated in the middle of open fields that are inhabited by pheasants, bunnies, and Highland Cows. (pronounced "Highland cooooooooooooooooooo." Not kidding about that, except for a few of the o's; but only a few.) Also, that was the first time I had seen a pheasant without a gun in my hand, and it didn't feel right. The fields were ringed by a pine forrest that the current Earl helped rejuvenate, considering that most of the trees in Scotland were felled long ago. This place had everything, ranging from an exquisite, victorian-era, portrait-ladened dining room to a medieval crypt full of arms and armor. There was even a whole wing called "the royal suite," which the Queen Mum's Mum designed specifically for the then Duke and Duchess of York, who spent part of their honeymoon at Glamis. (One might say that all of these rooms were rather Glamisorous... Had to do it.) Once Edward became George VI, the family spent many a vacation there, and the Queen Mum was apparently insistent that at least one of her children - Margaret, not the other one, whose name eludes me at the moment - be born there. Our cab driver told us that William and Harry used to race dune buggies up and down the castle's long driveway when they would visit their Scottish cousins as weeeeeeeeeee lads. I think the best part of the entire visit, though, had to be when we stumbled across what turned out to be the family's pet cemetery. When I first saw the headstones, I thought they were for some of the family members. In reality, they were for a few family dogs and a guinea pig named "Happy," who lived from 1993-1997. He was a gentle and caring soul who will be missed by all. Ashes to ashes, dust to dust, amen. (The weird thing is, though, one of the headstones had a legit name on it as well as a military unit, so I think that was a person. Don't know who that dude pissed off, but hey, overall not a bad place for a final resting place)
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It's an investment property. A little drafty in the winter, but with a little bit of work on the weekends it'll be just adorable!

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Apparently the only way Meg could get a picture of me with my eyes open was to shoot my back. That's what she told me, at least. I think she's trying to protect my feelings...
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iiiiiitchy. I had the strongest urge to jump over the fence and trim their bangs, but I also had an even stronger urge not to get gored.
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Sunday, April 3, 2011

nom nom nom nom...

British food gets a bad rap. Connoiseur's poo-poo the Isles' gastric creations because they're too "basic" and "starchy." Well basic and starchy are my middle names. (yup, that's what "Gilbert" and "Henry" really mean. they're family names.) Meg and I have had some lovely meals over here; some we've bought and some we've made.

On our first full day in St. Andrews Meg took me to this awesome little cafe right across from her academic building called Northpoint. There, we had a late brunch that consisted of scrambled eggs, rashers, and toast. The eggs were unbelievable; I don't know if it was the fresh milk or the extra sharp cheddar but I was definitely not in the mood for sharing.
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Translation: lay off me I'm starving!
Meg had basically the same thing, sans rashers and toast and on a bagel instead. Even after a week of traveling in Barcelona, she looked beautiful as always.
Today we decided to be a bit more adventurous and cook for ourselves. We decided to start with a cheese board, the contents of which we purchased at the local cheesemonger. It consisted of a nice local bleu, a smoked Lancashire, an Appiel's Cheshire, and the Isle of Mull Cheddar.

After that we were inspired by the local butcher to make a British classic: banger's and mash. We got some steak sausages, nice potatoes for mashing, and some string beans. Ye verily, it was delicious.
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It may look blurry, but don't be confused; the picture is actually obscured by the pure deliciousness that was oozing from the pan.

Damn you people! This is golf, not a rock concert.

Today being Sunday and all, Meg's and my inner yuppie compelled us to make for the nearest golf course. Turns out there happens to be one, or six, right down the second of St. Andrew's three roads. (or maybe it was the third...) Either way, we turned some sort of corner and ended up on the 18th green of the Old Course.
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The ridiculous thing is that on Sundays, they actually close the Old Course down and you can walk it. Seriously, it was us, tourists, and old ladies with dogs just traipsing up and down the ancestral home of golf.
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The cool thing is that the six courses are packed pretty close to each other, so while we were walking down the Old Course, people were playing on one of the other courses right next to us. I'm sure they really loved us walking next to them as they lined up shots and then stopping to watch them try and make their strokes. It also probably didn't help that I would turn around to face the non-existent crowd and hold up the imaginary "quiet please" signs...
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After we walked about five holes, though, I witnessed my first instance of Scotland's weather changing on a dime. As we were coming out from the heather, the rain drops started falling and the wind picked up from the bay. At that point we decided to head back to civilization and a bit of light libation. I think the next two pictures accurately sum up the weather change...
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Meg told me about this little pub that was right on the Old Course and was a famous hang-out for golfers and caddies. The Jigger Inn was a delightful sanctuary from the impending weather, and had some lovely beverages and smoked salmon.
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After our little walk, we made stops at the local Tesco, butcher, and cheesemonger to put together a typical British meal. (more on that later) For now, we're resting comfortably after a nice day's walk and are looking forward to a quiet evening in with tea and strumpets. (that was for all you Dumb and Dumber fans out there. you're welcome)

SCOTLAND!

Je suis ici! The blog title is finally accurate, because both Pat and Meg are actually in Scotland for the first time! I was greeted by a very welcome sight at Edinburgh airport Friday afternoon after about 24-hours of traveling.
Meg had just gotten in from Barcelona, and I think we were both pretty exhausted. We took a lovely train back from the airport to a town called Leuchars, where we caught a cab to Meg's RIDICULOUSLY NICE flat a little outside of St. Andrews proper. We're heading out to get some breakfast now, but eventually we'll put up some pictures to verify this claim, and substantiate the use of all caps. All of the buildings are stone and old school, and even though they got hit by a hard winter, too, everything is so green. Spring has sprung and the birds are singing. (You can go vomit now if you'd like.)
As mentioned earlier, we were both (particularly Pat) a little loopy Friday night, so we took it easy and just did a little evening walking tour of the town, followed by a delightful Thai dinner. Saturday, though, we hit the ground running and saw all three streets in St. Andrews! First on the tour, though, was Meg's exhibit at the St. Andrews Museum. I needed to see this thing for myself, because if I listened to Meg, I would have been convinced that it was put together by a couple of fourth graders cracked out on pixie sticks.
Needless to say, Meg was way too hard on herself. As the pictures will attest, this thing is legit professional. All of the artifacts are beautifully preserved, and the design is just fantastic. You would have no clue that it was put together by students. Ye verily, I was impressed.
After that we saw the beautiful quad, where there was a wedding going on. WITH KILTS! Every dude was wearing kilts, and they weren't even wearing the same ones; they went all out and wore their individual clan tartans. Even the little ginger toddler had a kilt on! I felt very underdressed.

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We walked by St. Andrews castle and down by the coast, where the water was incredibly blue. Apparently of the archbishops who inhabited the castle in the 1500s had at least 20 illegitimate kids! They were also rather violent, and we were able to walk, well, more like crawl down into a mine that the Regent of Scotland had dug to try and tunnel into the castle and save his imprisoned son. There is NO way that this thing would have been open to the public in the US. (stupid lawyers) The British also have quite a penchant for understated signs, and as you'll see, the warning sign didn't quite do the mine justice.
Later in the evening we moseyed down one of the other three streets and got delicious smoothies and ambled home just as the sun was going down. (At like 8 PM!!!!!!) But I think that is enough for now. We're about to get some breakfast and explore some more. More updates soon!

Pat and Meg